Sara, the landscape seems bare, but I enjoyed it quite a bit. There were a lot of neolithic sites everywhere and Scotland allows public access to all land, so I did quite a bit of hiking about. After being out and about, I usually stopped somewhere for some tea or a pint, depending on the time of day. I found everyone to be quite friendly and talkative.
Karen, yes - I think we're all nicer to our estranged spouses than is probably appropriate.
Hey g - hope you had fun camping. W wasn't a disappointment, just confused/ing. I don't think she was hinting at anything, I think she just wants something - either a favor or to assuage her guilt. Who knows - I guess I'll find out tomorrow.